Side by side
Sashiko vs Matelassé
Sashiko and matelassé both cover a cloth in a raised, quilted-looking geometric pattern, but one is made with a needle and the other on a loom. Sashiko is hand needlework: rows of small running stitches worked through layers of cloth, building geometric motifs and a softly textured, quilted surface. Matelassé is woven: a compound cloth whose two layers are bound at intervals so it puffs into a quilted relief straight off the loom, with no stitching at all.
Sashiko
No. 164running-stitch needlework on woven cloth · first documented 1600s
Matelassé
No. 146compound double cloth woven to look quilted · first documented 1800s
The differences
| Aspect | Sashiko | Matelassé |
|---|---|---|
| How it is made | Hand running stitches sewn through layered cloth. | Woven on a loom as a bound double cloth. |
| The pattern | Stitched geometric motifs (waves, hemp leaf, grids) in visible thread. | Puffed diamonds, scrolls, or florals raised by the weave. |
| Surface | Flatter, with the texture and thread of the stitches. | Pronounced padded relief, soft and dimensional. |
| Origin and use | Rural northern Japan; mending, then decorative craft. | France; bedding, jackets, structured eveningwear. |
Which to choose
If the quilted geometry is sewn in visible running stitches, it is sashiko; if the relief is woven in with no stitching, it is matelassé. Both imitate quilting, but sashiko actually stitches the layers while matelassé fakes the puff on the loom.
Common questions
- Is sashiko a kind of quilting?
- Closely related. Sashiko uses running stitches through layers of cloth, which is a form of quilting, but its purpose grew from reinforcement and mending into decorative geometric stitchwork. Matelassé only looks quilted; it is woven, not stitched.
- Can you tell them apart by touch?
- Yes. Sashiko has visible thread and stitch holes and a relatively flat, textured surface, while matelassé has a soft, pronounced padded relief and no stitching at all, since the puff is woven in.
- Which is handmade?
- Sashiko is traditionally hand-sewn, stitch by stitch. Matelassé is machine-woven, which is why it can produce its quilted look quickly and uniformly across a whole bolt of cloth.
Sources & References
- 1.Sashiko, Wikipedia
- 2.Boro (textile), Wikipedia
- 3.Matelassé, Wikipedia
- 4.Quilting, Wikipedia