Tussar

Tussar is the great wild silk of India, reeled from the cocoons of moths that feed on forest trees rather than cultivated mulberry. Its fiber is coarser, shorter, and naturally golden-tan or honey-brown, so the cloth is dry, textured, and richly slubbed rather than smooth and white like mulberry silk. Because the moths are wild and the cocoons often gathered after the moth emerges, tussar is sometimes called the more ethical silk, and its warm uneven luster makes it a favorite for saris, jackets, and furnishing.