Plate No. 093fabric

Reeled from double cocoons; slubs ridge the shot-color surface.

First documented
1900s
Origin
South Asia, India
Fiber
silk
Weave
plain weave, slubbed
Family
plain

Plate No. 093 · fabric

Dupioni

Dupioni is crisp, lustrous silk shot through with slubs, woven from yarn reeled off double cocoons, two worms that nested together and spun one tangled, uneven filament. Those irregular thicknesses ridge the surface in random horizontal slubs and give dupioni its dry rustle and sharp body. Often woven with one color in the warp and another in the weft, it flashes shot colors as it moves, which made it a favorite for structured evening gowns, drapery, and the crisp silk wedding dress.

Illustration: an Indian silk-reeling yard, women at a distance unwinding double cocoons into baskets, shot-color skeins drying, bright courtyard
An Indian silk-reeling yard, women at a distance unwinding double cocoons into baskets, shot-color skeins drying, bright courtyard.

Named for

From the Italian doppione, a double cocoon: dupioni silk is reeled from the irregular thread of two silkworms that spun together.

Often confused with

  1. 1.Dupioni, Wikipedia
  2. 2.dupioni, Wiktionary