Plate No. 161fabric

Pile pressed one way, catching light in a watery sheen.

First documented
1800s
Fiber
silk, rayon, polyester
Weave
velvet with the pile pressed flat in one direction
Family
pile

Plate No. 161 · fabric

Panne Velvet

Panne velvet is velvet whose pile has been pressed flat in a single direction under heat and heavy pressure, so that instead of standing upright the fibers all lie one way and reflect light in a bright, watery sheen. That treatment, a cousin of the crushing that makes crushed velvet, gives panne a high luster and a fluid, almost liquid drape much lighter than the upright pile of plain velvet. It became a cloth of eveningwear, opera capes, and the costumes of dance and skating, anywhere a garment needed to catch and pour the light as it moved.

Illustration: a 1930s costumiers atelier, panne velvet evening capes and gowns in deep jewel tones catching lamplight on a brass rail, a tall cheval mirror, a dressmaker seen at a distance pinning a hem, warm shadowed light
A 1930s costumiers atelier, panne velvet evening capes and gowns in deep jewel tones catching lamplight on a brass rail, a tall cheval mirror, a dressmaker seen at a distance pinning a hem, warm shadowed light.

Named for

From the French panne, a long-pile velvet or plush; the cloth is the crushed, flattened form of it.

Often confused with

  1. 1.Panne velvet, Wikipedia
  2. 2.Velvet, Wikipedia