Is panne velvet just crushed velvet?

They are close. Both flatten the pile, but panne velvet presses the whole pile in one direction for an even, directional sheen, while crushed velvet twists and presses it in random directions for a more mottled, textured look. Panne is the smoother, more uniform of the two.

Is panne velvet warmer or lighter than velvet?

Lighter. Pressing the pile flat reduces the loft that makes upright velvet full-bodied and insulating, so panne is thinner, more fluid, and more about sheen and drape than warmth.

Why does panne velvet shine so much?

Because all its pile fibers lie the same way, they reflect light together in one direction, like a field of grass combed flat, producing the bright, watery luster that upright velvet, scattering light in all directions, does not have.

Side by side

Velvet vs Panne Velvet

Velvet and panne velvet are the same cloth at two settings of the pile. Velvet has a dense, upright cut pile that stands away from the ground and gives the fabric its deep, even, light-absorbing richness. Panne velvet has had that pile pressed flat in one direction under heat and pressure, so it lies down and reflects light in a bright, watery sheen, lighter and more fluid than upright velvet.

Velvet

No. 052

warp pile, cut · first documented Middle Ages

Panne Velvet

No. 161

velvet with the pile pressed flat in one direction · first documented 1800s

The differences

Aspect	Velvet	Panne Velvet
Pile direction	Upright; the cut fibers stand away from the ground.	Pressed flat in a single direction.
Look	Deep, even, light-absorbing richness.	Bright, watery, directional sheen.
Weight and drape	Fuller-bodied; the pile gives it loft.	Lighter and more fluid; the flattened pile drapes closely.
Typical use	Upholstery, formal jackets, gowns, drapery.	Eveningwear, opera capes, dance and skating costumes.

Which to choose

They are one cloth finished two ways: leave the cut pile standing and it is velvet, deep and matte-rich; press it flat and it is panne, light and gleaming. If the surface pours the light in one direction, it is panne; if it holds a deep even nap, it is velvet.

Common questions

Is panne velvet just crushed velvet?: They are close. Both flatten the pile, but panne velvet presses the whole pile in one direction for an even, directional sheen, while crushed velvet twists and presses it in random directions for a more mottled, textured look. Panne is the smoother, more uniform of the two.
Is panne velvet warmer or lighter than velvet?: Lighter. Pressing the pile flat reduces the loft that makes upright velvet full-bodied and insulating, so panne is thinner, more fluid, and more about sheen and drape than warmth.
Why does panne velvet shine so much?: Because all its pile fibers lie the same way, they reflect light together in one direction, like a field of grass combed flat, producing the bright, watery luster that upright velvet, scattering light in all directions, does not have.

Full entry: Velvet Full entry: Panne Velvet

Sources & References

1.Velvet, Wikipedia
2.velvet, Online Etymology Dictionary
3.Panne velvet, Wikipedia