Are matelassé and piqué the same?

No. Both are woven with a raised dimensional surface, but matelassé puffs into a soft, padded quilt, while piqué raises a crisp, firm, low geometric texture like cords or a waffle. Matelassé feels cushioned; piqué feels structured.

Is matelassé actually quilted?

Not by stitching. The quilted look is woven in: two sets of yarns are bound together at intervals so the cloth puffs into padded shapes straight off the loom, with no wadding or hand quilting. It imitates a quilt without being one.

Why is piqué used for polo shirts?

Its crisp, firm, breathable textured weave holds its shape, resists clinging, and gives collars and plackets a structured body, which is exactly what a polo or tennis shirt wants. Matelassé would be too soft and padded for that job.

Side by side

Matelassé vs Piqué

Matelassé and piqué are both cottons (and silks) with a raised, dimensional, quilted-looking surface woven straight off the loom, and they are easily confused. The difference is in scale and depth. Matelassé puffs into a soft, padded, three-dimensional quilt of diamonds or scrolls, looking genuinely wadded. Piqué raises a crisp, low, regular geometric texture, fine cords, waffles, or honeycombs, that is firm and structured rather than puffy.

Matelassé

No. 146

compound double cloth woven to look quilted · first documented 1800s

Pique

No. 085

dobby, raised waffle or cord · first documented 1700s

The differences

Aspect	Matelassé	Pique
Surface	Soft, padded, puffed relief; reads as a quilt.	Crisp, low, regular geometric texture; reads as a structured weave.
Depth	Pronounced, almost wadded relief.	Shallow, firm, defined ridges or cells.
Hand	Soft and cushioned.	Firm, springy, and crisp.
Typical use	Bedding, jackets, structured eveningwear.	Polo and tennis shirts, collars, cuffs, white waistcoats.

Which to choose

If the raised surface is soft and puffed like a quilt, it is matelassé; if it is a crisp, firm, low geometric texture, it is piqué. Both are woven to be dimensional, but matelassé cushions while piqué structures.

Common questions

Are matelassé and piqué the same?: No. Both are woven with a raised dimensional surface, but matelassé puffs into a soft, padded quilt, while piqué raises a crisp, firm, low geometric texture like cords or a waffle. Matelassé feels cushioned; piqué feels structured.
Is matelassé actually quilted?: Not by stitching. The quilted look is woven in: two sets of yarns are bound together at intervals so the cloth puffs into padded shapes straight off the loom, with no wadding or hand quilting. It imitates a quilt without being one.
Why is piqué used for polo shirts?: Its crisp, firm, breathable textured weave holds its shape, resists clinging, and gives collars and plackets a structured body, which is exactly what a polo or tennis shirt wants. Matelassé would be too soft and padded for that job.

Full entry: Matelassé Full entry: Pique

Sources & References

1.Matelassé, Wikipedia
2.Quilting, Wikipedia
3.Pique (weaving), Wikipedia
4.Waffle fabric, Wikipedia