Plate No. 162fabric

Pale geometric symbols left as the ground while the mud darkens around them.

First documented
1800s
Origin
Mali, Mali
Fiber
cotton
Weave
cotton hand-painted with fermented mud over a leaf dye
Family
prints

Plate No. 162 · fabric

Mud Cloth

Mud cloth, in Bambara bogolanfini, is the hand-painted cotton of Mali, patterned not by weaving or printing but by dyeing with mud. The woven cloth is first steeped in a tannin-rich leaf solution, then a craftsperson paints fermented, iron-rich mud onto it, and where the mud meets the tannin it reacts and fixes a deep brown-black. The pale geometric symbols are usually the negative, left as the ground while the area around them is darkened stroke by stroke. Made traditionally by Bamana women, the symbols carry proverbs, status, and protection, and the cloth has become both a national emblem of Mali and a globally borrowed design.

Illustration: a Bamana courtyard in rural Mali, lengths of mud-painted cotton cloth pegged out to dry in strong sun, clay pots of dark fermented mud dye on the ground, a woman seen at a distance painting geometric symbols with a small stick, dry earth and a mud-brick wall
A Bamana courtyard in rural Mali, lengths of mud-painted cotton cloth pegged out to dry in strong sun, clay pots of dark fermented mud dye on the ground, a woman seen at a distance painting geometric symbols with a small stick, dry earth and a mud-brick wall.

Named for

From the Bambara bogolanfini: bogo, earth or mud, lan, with, and fini, cloth, cloth made with mud.

Often confused with

From the journal

  1. 1.Bogolanfini, Wikipedia
  2. 2.Resist dyeing, Wikipedia