Plate No. 091fabric

The rippling watermark is pressed into the rib, not woven.

First documented
1600s
Origin
France, France
Fiber
silk
Weave
ribbed plain weave, calendered
Family
plain

Plate No. 091 · fabric

Moire

Moire is the watered silk: a ribbed cloth like faille run through engraved rollers under heat and pressure so the ribs are flattened unevenly, throwing a rippling, woodgrain-like figure that shifts as the cloth moves. The watermark is a finish, not a weave, pressed in rather than woven, and historically it could not survive wetting, which is half why watered silk read as luxury. It clothes ceremonial sashes, academic and ecclesiastical robes, and the lining of opera capes, anywhere a surface should seem to move in the light.

Illustration: a French silk-finishing workshop, a length of dark watered silk emerging from a great engraved calender roller, brass machinery, gaslight
A French silk-finishing workshop, a length of dark watered silk emerging from a great engraved calender roller, brass machinery, gaslight.

Named for

From the French moire, itself an alteration of English mohair; the verb moirer means to water, for the watered finish.

  1. 1.Moire (fabric), Wikipedia
  2. 2.moire, Online Etymology Dictionary