Plate No. 087fabric

Bold rounded crosswise cords in deep relief.

First documented
1800s
Origin
France and the Ottoman world, France
Fiber
silk, wool
Weave
plain weave, bold crosswise cord
Family
stripes

Plate No. 087 · fabric

Ottoman

Ottoman is faille's bold sibling: a heavy, lustrous cloth with pronounced rounded crosswise cords, made by floating fine warp over thick cord wefts so the ridges stand up in deep relief. The scale of the rib is the whole identity, from fine ottoman to the wide cords of cardinals' robes and academic and ceremonial dress. Its weight and sheen made it a cloth of state and of structured evening coats, where it holds a sculptural shape no flat silk could.

Illustration: a cathedral vestry, heavy corded ceremonial robes on a rail in deep relief, carved choir stalls beyond, shafts of colored window light
A cathedral vestry, heavy corded ceremonial robes on a rail in deep relief, carved choir stalls beyond, shafts of colored window light.

Named for

Named for the Ottoman Empire, evoking the heavy corded silks associated with its court textiles.

Often confused with

  1. 1.Ottoman (textile), Wikipedia
  2. 2.Faille, Wikipedia