Side by side
Faille vs Ottoman
Faille and ottoman are the same idea at two scales: both are plain weaves with crosswise ribs, made by bending fine warp over heavier weft. The difference is rib size. Faille raises low, fine, closely spaced ribs for a soft horizontal grain; ottoman raises bold, rounded cords that stand in deep relief. One whispers a rib, the other shouts a cord.
Faille
No. 086plain weave, flat crosswise rib · first documented 1600s
Ottoman
No. 087plain weave, bold crosswise cord · first documented 1800s
The differences
| Aspect | Faille | Ottoman |
|---|---|---|
| Rib scale | Low, fine, closely spaced. | Bold, rounded, widely spaced cords. |
| Hand | Soft, supple, drapes readily. | Heavy, firm, holds sculptural shape. |
| Weight | Light to medium. | Heavy. |
| Register | Wedding gowns, opera coats, facings, ribbon. | Ceremonial and academic robes, structured evening coats. |
Which to choose
Run a finger across the grain. Fine close ridges are faille; fat rounded cords you can feel individually are ottoman. They are points on one continuum of crosswise rib, with grosgrain ribbon sitting near the faille end.
Common questions
- How are the crosswise ribs made?
- By tension and yarn weight: many fine warp ends are set over a heavier weft, so the warp bends around the weft and the weft sits proud as a ridge. Bigger, heavier weft cords give bigger ribs, which is the whole difference between faille and ottoman.
- Is grosgrain the same as faille?
- Closely related. Grosgrain is essentially a firm, narrow faille, most familiar as ribbon; faille names the wider apparel cloth with the same fine crosswise rib.
Sources & References
- 1.Faille, Wikipedia
- 2.faille, Wiktionary
- 3.Ottoman (textile), Wikipedia