Plate No. 117 · fabric

Melton

Melton is a dense, heavy woolen woven as a twill and then so thoroughly fulled and closely sheared that the weave disappears entirely, leaving a smooth, matte, feltlike surface. Because the fibers are matted together, cut edges do not fray, so melton can be left unhemmed, which made it ideal for tailored coat collars, military uniforms, the pea coat, and the bodies of varsity jackets. It takes its name from Melton Mowbray, a hub of English fox hunting, where its windproof density suited the hard-wearing riding coat.