Is Gore-Tex or waxed cotton more waterproof?

Both keep out rain well when in good condition. The real difference is breathability: Gore-Tex lets sweat vapor escape while staying waterproof, whereas waxed cotton seals the cloth completely, so it can feel clammy during exertion even though it sheds rain.

Why does waxed cotton need re-waxing?

The wax that fills the weave wears off with use, abrasion, and time, so the cloth gradually loses its water-shedding. Rubbing in fresh wax and warming it to soak in restores the finish, which is part of why waxed cotton garments can last for decades.

Which is better for hiking?

Usually Gore-Tex, because it is lighter, packable, and breathable for high-output activity. Waxed cotton suits country and town wear, motorcycling, and anyone who values durability and repairability over breathability and low weight.

Side by side

Gore-Tex vs Waxed Cotton

Gore-Tex and waxed cotton are the modern and the traditional answers to the same problem: staying dry in the rain. Gore-Tex is a synthetic laminate built around a microporous membrane that blocks liquid water while letting sweat vapor out, so it is waterproof and breathable. Waxed cotton is a tightly woven cotton soaked in wax, so water beads and runs off, but the wax also seals the cloth against the escape of sweat. One breathes; the other does not, and that is the heart of the choice.

Gore-Tex

No. 141

laminate: a microporous membrane bonded to a face cloth · first documented 1976

Waxed Cotton

No. 145

tightly woven cotton impregnated with wax · first documented 1800s

The differences

Aspect	Gore-Tex	Waxed Cotton
How it keeps water out	A microporous ePTFE membrane: pores too small for water drops, large enough for vapor.	Wax fills the weave so water beads and sheds off the surface.
Breathability	Breathable: sweat vapor passes out through the membrane.	Not breathable: the wax seals the cloth, so it can feel clammy in exertion.
Weight and feel	Light, packable, modern.	Heavy, stiff, with a distinctive oiled hand and smell.
Care	Wash gently, reproof the durable water-repellent face finish occasionally.	Re-wax periodically by hand to restore the finish; cannot be machine washed.
Character	High-performance, but the laminate eventually delaminates and is hard to repair.	Long-lived, repairable, ages into a patina; the classic Barbour field jacket.

Which to choose

For light, breathable, high-output waterproofing, Gore-Tex wins. For a heavy, durable, repairable, patina-aging rain layer with no electronics-age fragility, waxed cotton endures. The trade is breathability and weight against longevity and reparability.

Common questions

Is Gore-Tex or waxed cotton more waterproof?: Both keep out rain well when in good condition. The real difference is breathability: Gore-Tex lets sweat vapor escape while staying waterproof, whereas waxed cotton seals the cloth completely, so it can feel clammy during exertion even though it sheds rain.
Why does waxed cotton need re-waxing?: The wax that fills the weave wears off with use, abrasion, and time, so the cloth gradually loses its water-shedding. Rubbing in fresh wax and warming it to soak in restores the finish, which is part of why waxed cotton garments can last for decades.
Which is better for hiking?: Usually Gore-Tex, because it is lighter, packable, and breathable for high-output activity. Waxed cotton suits country and town wear, motorcycling, and anyone who values durability and repairability over breathability and low weight.

Full entry: Gore-Tex Full entry: Waxed Cotton

Sources & References

1.Gore-Tex, Wikipedia
2.Polytetrafluoroethylene, Wikipedia
3.Waxed cotton, Wikipedia
4.Oilskin, Wikipedia