Is brocatelle just a kind of brocade?

The name means little brocade, and the two are closely related figured weaves, but brocatelle is distinguished by its high, embossed relief, created by a tight binder warp that flattens the ground so the figure puffs up. Brocade's figure is richer but flatter, and often carries metallic thread.

Which is used for furniture?

Brocatelle, more often. Its heavy, dimensional, hard-wearing relief suits wall hangings, curtains, and upholstery, while brocade ranges more widely from dress fabric to furnishing and is prized where metallic ornament matters.

Does brocade have metallic threads?

Often, yes. Brocade is traditionally associated with supplementary gold or silver wefts that give it its glitter, though it can be woven in plain colored silks too. Brocatelle relies more on relief than on metallic thread for its effect.

Side by side

Brocade vs Brocatelle

Brocade and brocatelle are both rich figured cloths woven with raised ornamental motifs, and the names are nearly the same word, brocatelle being literally a little brocade. The difference is in the relief. Brocade carries its figure with extra supplementary wefts, often gold or silver, on a flat ground. Brocatelle uses a tightly bound binder warp to pull the ground flat so the figure puffs up in high, almost padded relief, making it a heavier furnishing cloth.

Brocade

No. 062

jacquard, supplementary weft figures · first documented Middle Ages

Brocatelle

No. 149

figured compound weave with raised motifs · first documented 1600s

The differences

Aspect	Brocade	Brocatelle
How the figure is made	Extra supplementary weft yarns float to form the motif, often metallic.	A tight binder warp flattens the ground so the satin or twill figure bulges in relief.
Relief	Raised, but relatively shallow; the cloth stays supple.	High, embossed, almost padded relief; the figure stands well proud.
Weight and use	From dress-weight to furnishing; gowns, vestments, trim.	Heavier; chiefly wall hangings, drapery, and upholstery.
Hand	Richer and more flexible.	Firmer and more dimensional, closer to matelassé in feel.

Which to choose

Both are figured luxury weaves, but brocatelle is the heavier, more sculptural of the two, with a figure that puffs into high relief against a flattened ground, while brocade lays a richer but flatter ornament, often with metallic thread. For garments and metallic glitter, brocade; for embossed grandeur on a wall or chair, brocatelle.

Common questions

Is brocatelle just a kind of brocade?: The name means little brocade, and the two are closely related figured weaves, but brocatelle is distinguished by its high, embossed relief, created by a tight binder warp that flattens the ground so the figure puffs up. Brocade's figure is richer but flatter, and often carries metallic thread.
Which is used for furniture?: Brocatelle, more often. Its heavy, dimensional, hard-wearing relief suits wall hangings, curtains, and upholstery, while brocade ranges more widely from dress fabric to furnishing and is prized where metallic ornament matters.
Does brocade have metallic threads?: Often, yes. Brocade is traditionally associated with supplementary gold or silver wefts that give it its glitter, though it can be woven in plain colored silks too. Brocatelle relies more on relief than on metallic thread for its effect.

Full entry: Brocade Full entry: Brocatelle

Sources & References

1.Brocade, Wikipedia
2.brocade, Online Etymology Dictionary
3.Brocatelle, Wikipedia