Plate No. 082fabric

The open, sized weave of the tailor's interfacing.

First documented
Middle Ages
Origin
Central Asia
Fiber
cotton, linen
Weave
open plain weave, heavily sized
Family
plain

Plate No. 082 · fabric

Buckram

Buckram is cloth made rigid: a loose, open plain weave saturated with a stiffening size, paste, glue, or starch, until it holds a shape on its own. It is the hidden skeleton of tailoring and bookbinding, the interfacing inside hat brims, belts, collars, and the spine and boards of hardcover books. The medieval word once named a prized fine cloth, but the meaning hardened, literally, into the stiffener. Shakespeare made it a byword for padding when Falstaff lied about the men in buckram who set upon him.

Illustration: a Victorian bookbindery, tall presses and stacks of cloth-bound boards, a binder at a distance gluing a spine, sized cloth drying on a rack
A Victorian bookbindery, tall presses and stacks of cloth-bound boards, a binder at a distance gluing a spine, sized cloth drying on a rack.

Named for

By tradition from Bukhara, the Silk Road city, though the medieval cloth that bore the name was a fine fabric, not the stiffener it later became.

  1. 1.Buckram, Wikipedia
  2. 2.buckram, Wiktionary